jmhobbs

As a father of three, all of these things are great.

Keeping a change of clothes and a couple diapers in the car is another thing to recommend, you will eventually forget the diaper bag, or forget to reload it. Having last ditch emergency supplies is a lifesaver.

I'd add a NoseFrida as another product, those bulb type snot suckers have poor control, and get disgusting on the inside. It's a bit weird the first time, but it works a treat.

The domestic honey bee is honestly doing fine these days, varroa is better understood and controlled (for now) in captive populations.

The argument is that non-native honey bees (if you live in the US) put pressure on the native pollinators competing for the same food sources. It makes sense logically, since commercial producers will have huge bee yards and do migratory beekeeping to follow the pollination contracts and the honey flows. I have not, however, ever seen a study on it. I've also never really gone looking.

Even among 100% real honey, the ratios of sucrose, glucose and fructose vary wildly. At the extremes tupelo honey is very high fructose, and thus is famous for not crystallizing easily. On the other hand, canola/rapeseed swings so far the other way that it can crystalize in the comb before harvesting.

Does it if you're not fruiting them though? I make 5lb hardwood sawdust bags with about a quart, quart and a half of water, and that's all that is needed for the mycelium to colonize the whole thing. I suppose at scale a liter for a 12"x6"x6" block is perhaps a bit much lot.

I'd be surprised to find any commercial keepers using polystyrene. Migratory bee keeping is rough on equipment, and at scale I think woodenware still makes the most sense. I'm not in that community, but everything I see in Bee Culture and online looks like polystyrene is firmly in the hobbyist realm.

Honey bees are the easiest to manage really. Some other bees are raised for pollination, but honey bees have a long history of management and semi-domestication. We already know how to raise and manage big colonies for migratory pollination.

I ran cornish cross meat birds twice, 20 birds each time, and by butchering at ~8 weeks the roos didn't get around real well anymore, given the weight to leg ratio.

Those were pasture raised, with restricted supplemental feed, and just the ordinary breeds you can get at Tractor Supply. I wouldn't be shocked if you let a "real" production hybrid go past butchering age and feed them grains the whole time, you'd probably get some birds unable to move under their own weight.

After two rounds, I gave up on them and now run less aggressive weight gainers that forage better, like freedom rangers.

Obviously just anecdotal, but don't dismiss it outright.