Wirecutter is a pay-to-play operation. I stopped heeding their recommendations after I discovered that they were aggressively persuing kickbacks and refusing to review products that do not pay. See https://www.xdesk.com/wirecutter-standing-desk-review-pay-to... for example.
Also note that wirecutter in their response do not deny this but try to weasel out by claiming that the word 'kickback' was misleading.
One valid criticism NextDesk raised was our use of the word “kickback” in our business communications, which is a misleading description of the affiliate business model because it implies an illicit transaction. In our company’s early days, we misused the term to describe a straightforward affiliate relationship, but we have since changed how we talk about the affiliate business, which is one we continue to stand behind.
Also note that wirecutter in their response do not deny this but try to weasel out by claiming that the word 'kickback' was misleading.
https://www.nytimes.com/wirecutter/our-response-to-nextdesk/