wheresmycraisin

Charge more

If you're planning on working there for 10+ years and you are well treated, do glue work. Otherwise do flashy stuff. First, you can change jobs any time to make it someone else's problem, and second, it you can always blame the "unglued" code for any of your own inefficiencies/f'ups.

Legacy app maintenance in an obscure tech stack is basically all that's out there

Random trivia: the creators of Doom made sure that they could complete each level starting only with a pistol and 50 rounds by doing it themselves.

Your audience isn't a billion people

And staying in school through college is a great way to be in debt for the rest of your life and regret having a useless degree.

I prefer a well tuned smoothing plane or a card scraper, personally.

CNC would not make much easier unless you were also doing inlays. For straight repeated cuts a table saw would be 100x faster.

Only very large commercial cutting board makers would be able to accommodate custom design orders from a tool like this. It would have to be extremely constrained in terms of the tools available to the ship (like the maximum capacity of sanders), availability of space and clamps, and most importantly availability of appropriate wood.

I have 25 years of coding experience, built two successful businesses, and I have no idea what this thing is supposed to do.

> I often see this repeated in online woodworking forums but my experience here has been different albeit limited to kanna blades from two makers.

They are bedded at roughly 40 degrees (nothing to do with the metal, admittedly). Unless there's another factor at play, I don't see how that'd work for a smoother on 1500+ janka woods.

> Japanese saws are typically very thin, again requiring much less metal. This means that the saws cut on a pull stroke, rather than a push stroke like European saws. Since the saw is much more flexible this requires more skill. But you end up with a very thin kerf and minimal waste.

Japanese non-disposible saws seem quite beefy and more comparable to western saws in thickness. The super thin disposibles are a modern innovation (impulse hardening not being available in the Edo period...). Also, western joinery saws are very thin.

The fact that it is flexible does not affect its use because it doesn't flex when you pull it, so that's not something you have to worry about. In fact they are ideal beginner saws because they are higher quality (than, say, whatever you can get at home depot for $40) and don't need to be sharpened (because these days they are all replaceable).

> Much traditional Japanese carpentry involves complex joints made of hardwood,

Actually most Japanese woods are quite soft. Most japanese planes wouldn't be able to handle Maple or Hickory, to say nothing of the harder exotics.

> not typically fastened with metal (e.g., nails, screws).

Timberframing is a uncommon but definitely still a thing in the US and Europe. And 2x4 stick framing with metal fasteners is also a thing in Japan, having gained popularity b/c of its simplicity in recent decades.

> The amount of slop you’d see in an 18th-century metal-fastened European joint would have been unthinkable to a contemporaneous Japanese carpenter.

I'd put 18th century european fine furniture against japanese fine furniture any day. It's not until the 20th century that you saw a decline in western skills. The secret to the japanese is that they kept the tradition and skills alive, whereas in the west it's had to be revived.

If you only have one or two zoom calls per day, I suggest doing it in your car. It's likely quieter than anywhere in your house.

How is that a response to "Not everything has be a Large Enterprise Application."? If I said "not everything has to be blue" would you reply "what's one thing that's blue?"?