party_possum

Climbing route setting (when done at a high level) is constantly in conversation with itself. Many climbers don't realize that there are trends or fads in movement styles that sweep across the industry. This has only picked up steam in an era of social media.

Just like movie dorks will happily spend hours explaining how an individual shot in a movie is actually an insider reference to another movie, and as a result a statement of intent for the movie as a whole, professional route setters will talk your ear off about the way one of their problems embraces or rejects specific kinds of movement trends of the last 6 months.

That intentional rejection is interesting. Many route setters, especially for competitions, are in constant search of novelty. One kind of perfect problem is something that looks confusing and impossible, up until you see it done, at which point it seems almost obvious. It's the feeling of solving a sudoku. But critically, they want climbers to be initially confused.

I wonder if AI might actually be better than humans at sequencing these kinds of problems. Humans bring so much context and experience and expectation to the process that we are easily tricked. AI just looks through a few terabytes of video and says "What about this?".

One of the last bastions of ugly/functional design I encounter on a regular basis is restaurant/bar Point of Sale systems. Look over the host's shoulder at a busy restaurant and you'll see something that looks like it just woke up from a nap it took in 1995. Do an image search for "restaurant POS" and you'll see what I mean.

Even this is changing though. Online SaaS POS platforms have to be "beautiful" and "modern" to sell to startup restauranteurs, so they're slowly just becoming fashionable websites. But in most large/busy/established restaurants, you'll see people running software that would make an art school grad weep.

The idea of incorporating actual hold data and "recognizing" specific holds is interesting, but I'm not sure it completely solves the problem.

The "Boss" from Pusher is arguably the most famous climbing hold ever made. For a decade or more, every gym had one, but they were all unique. Lots of them had micro chips that became critical to usage of the hold. Some had decent texture and some were glassy smooth from years and years and years of use. A lot of the accidental variation in new holds has gone away as the industry has standardized around a handful of industrial fabricators like Aragon, but even over the course of a single indoor boulder problem's life, the accumulation of chalk, sweat, and shoe rubber can have a significant impact on how a hold climbs.

I guess the real question is, do these changes just make routes harder or do they make them fundamentally different? Do they actually change the set of moves that constitutes the easiest way to the top? To be honest, I'm not entirely sure. But it's something interesting to think about.

It would be really interesting to build an instance of this model trained on world cup footage for a few reasons.

- Like all of these things, your training data matters and the internet is awash with videos of people climbing badly. A lot of people specifically post "I can't climb this, what am I doing wrong?" videos. World cup climbers are, by the nature of the competition, extremely talented and technically proficient climbers. Even when they fail, they fail in smart interesting ways.

- There's lots of high quality video footage out there. Heck, the problems are even set with visual clarity in mind which would help when parsing that footage. There's potentially enough video to train instances on individual climbers. You could run side by sides like "How would Tamoa climb this and how would Janja climb this?".

- World cup problems are stylistically distinct. They involve lots of moves "typical" climbers will never ever encounter. Many climbers will look at a typical gym problem and think "I have an idea of how to climb this" but will look at a world cup problem and just think "????????". An app that told you how a problem like that should be climbed might be useful.

There are drawbacks too.

- World cup climbers are outliers, whose physical ability (strength, flexibility, etc.) give them access to kinds of movement that other climbers just don't have. No amount of "knowing the sequence" will get me up a climb that requires a full bat hang (look it up) because I just don't have the ankle strength to do the movement.

- World cup "style" is only commonly used at high level comps and in very large commercial gyms. It's probably not extremely relevant to a typical climbing session.

- World cup problems are very hard. Mostly v10 and up? It would be hilarious to watch a model trained on genetic monsters crushing the world's hardest boulder problems try to tell a doughy office worker (me) how to climb v2.