noknockers
Joined 14 years ago
Joined 14 years ago
Depends on where you surf though. All these questions and answers are completely location dependent. If you're at a super crowded break (like where I live) it's every man for themselves. Your best friend will burn you if they see you falter for even a millisecond.
There's definitely a completely separate water-based hierarchy, based 100% on how good you surf.
To answer your question:
>Why should I need the permission and tacit approval of "the regulars" to choose to start surfing?
You don't need anyones permission at all, but you have to remember surfing is not a team sport, you're competing with everyone else out there to catch a limited amount of waves in the time you have. Couple that with flat days, bad winds, bad swell direction, bad tides and limited time, it's not often you score it 'on', so everyone it's out there to get their share.
So you don't need permission, but don't expect people to be happy with you.. and if you drop in or snake someone (steal their wave) then expect to have even less friends.
I think becoming a parent, like everything in life, just taught him some lessons: How to manage his time and looking at the big picture often puts things into perspective. Both these things help with efficiency.
It's almost identical to what I went (and still going) through with having kids. I got much better at 'mind hacking'. I could be playing with the kids or making dinner or whatever and my mind is hacking away at solution to problems.
I try and go surfing every week day, and most of the weekend, and i don't want to be bothered with taking time out to eat (i've got 2 kids too - so I don't have much time). Sure I can easily go grab some junk food and eat on the go but I really don't want to when I'm trying to keep my body in good shape.
I usually mix a bunch of raw nuts, raisins, fruit/berries, yogurt into a smoothy and have that as food. but it still requires time to make a clean up, not to mention the cost of fruit and nuts. Dinner is usually cooked by my wife, so that's not an issue for me because it's time with the family.
Instead of trying to fight the interruptions themselves, I decided to try and become better/faster at context switching by training myself to compartmentalize the jobs on hand (programming/helping kids/answering questions).
It took a while to figure it out and i'm still getting better at it, but so far it works pretty well and I can jump between contexts much better than i could before. When I get interrupted, I'll take a snapshot of where i am, store it away and 'switch' to the new issue.