kedikedi
Joined 7 years ago
Joined 7 years ago
So I see someone dedicating a sizeable portion of their life on a discovery and not being credited is the problem here. Otherwise it would be published in a journal anyway.
20 years later, I think some more zeroes are available to be removed :)
Lithium cells are happy when they are around 20-25 degrees Celsius (about 75F?) but they don’t enjoy when it’s hot or cold. Likewise, they don’t enjoy full charges and discharges which I’d guess more probable in a smaller range car.
All in all, the first gen Leaf might not be a good benchmark for a more modern EV. Many things should be better now.
My guess is that it’s because they sell any particular piece of hardware in millions and it’s in their best interest to design it properly so they don’t have to deal with the returns.
You might ask why not connect them in series and get the voltage difference as small as possible. But the “forward voltages” of LEDs are highly temperature dependent and car battery voltage is (somewhat) engine rpm dependent (might swing between 12 and 13.8V between no rpm and some rpm. It’s kept flat at 13.8V)
Combine egr with pcv, which directs positive crankcase pressure into the intake, you get an oily sooty mixture caking inside the intake.
Combine this with swirl flaps, which create a small tornado at lower engine speeds for better combustion, you get caking on the flaps and your intake becomes halfway clogged.
These are my annoyances. But to be honest, it didn’t require cleaning even after 250.000 kilometers of driving. I saw the caking while doing some other work, but the engine was running fine
But there’s also the dpf, and the adblue stuff. Dpf is an issue only if you use wrong kind of oil and clog it. I’m assuming people remove the dpf to run coal, as it will get clogged extremely fast if you detune your engine. It might also be an annoyance if you want to mod the engine, but not sure on that front. And adblue is yet another thing to fill every now and then. No experience with that, but I assume it might annoy some.
To my defense, I put a bit of wood between the metal and my hand to prevent drilling my hand but little did I know how the drill catches the steel on the very last part of the cut.
And the strength of the output is highly dependent on the material for both printers. The typical resin is extremely brittle, but rather heat resistant. But you can get flexible or tough material which are both less brittle but also less rigid.
So to answer your question: not necessarily :) nylon-like SLA materials are pretty good for usable everyday items if you don't mind the slight fidelity losses (still better than FDM)
My comparisons are against my own printer, anycubic photon mono. I can get a new printer with the same price of a bottle of formlabs material :)
The sound of the engine also changes greatly depending on the throttle position and engine load but for me it was more audible and I couldn’t feel it from the throttle. Modern cars are pretty good with sound insulation from the engine, but I’ve heard some “sporty” cars direct the intake sound to the cabin for giving the noisy sports car experience to the driver without being obnoxious with the exhaust side.
I am located in Helsinki, and Google "semih iseri" to find me, or use name.surname at gmail.com to reach me(hint: semih is the name)