Maciek416
Joined 17 years ago
Joined 17 years ago
Regarding the dropping of biomass, in both deciduous and evergreen species, some of the substances from the retiring leaves/needles are reclaimed by trees ("retranslocation") and pulled out of the leaf before letting go of the leaf. In species like pines it'll be the second or third (or older, sometimes much older) retiring needles and in species like maple or beech it'll the be the entire foliage. Mass useful to soil ecosystems still falls but the tree grabs what it can in the late months of the year, hence the color change.
One thing the grandparent comment doesn't talk about much is the cost (in sugar) of both building and thereafter maintaining leaves and the related tradeoffs. Building a fully winter-tolerant broadleaf is more expensive sugar-wise than building a winter-interolerant leaf. A sugar maple in Quebec, where the season is shorter than (say) Oregon is going to compete in its niche better if it can attain surface area quickly at the start of the growing season, and that is better done with a winter-intolerant, more relatively delicate leaf. An evergreen leaf takes more time and mass to build and has to have more limited surface area or armor (cuticle) to tolerate such winters.
In my time studying bonsai (past 7-10y) in every winter (Jan-Mar) I've repotted (anywhere from partial to full bare rooting, partial to full root structure editing) many PNW-native deciduous trees (alders, bigleaf + vine maples, cottonwoods, etc) as well as non-PNW-native deciduous (birches, beeches, elms, maples, hazels, hornbeams, stewartia, bald cypress, cherries/plums, quinces, snowbells, etc). In somewhat-mild-and-milder climates there is always some root growth going on. Such winter root growth is much more aggressive in conifers, particularly pines, but also in spruces, cypress-family species (junipers).
Here's a diagram from a paper showing scots pine and rowan/ash adding either root or vegitative growth in various parts of the year:
Temperate trees collect or spend carbon in the warm parts of the year, i.e. between bud-break and mid-summer. In cooler parts of the year, they do various things: store it in the wood, move it around (redistribution + retranslocation), spend it (future-season buds + cambium + root expansion) or carefully avoid spending it (dormancy).
Even in these periods they're still collecting sunlight if they can, quite a few deciduous species can photosynthesize at least a little bit directly through their bark -- young twigs have much thinner bark even in trees that get very rough bark (eg: black cottonwood). And evergreens are collecting sunlight any time mild-or-warmer conditions are in play.
Trees are active in some shape or form any time they are able to be. If you live in USDA hardiness zone 7 or warmer and have trees/shrubs outside you can notice this more easily than in colder climates (where the grow/no-grow seasons are more sharply bounded). Roots are not the only thing expanding in winter. Take a picture every day of a branch on a deciduous or evergreen tree and you'll see bud expansion.
Nanite is Unreal’s implementation of a similar thing. The README even links to Unreal’s implementation in the references section.
The known-good techniques that produced long-term bonsai don't in any way whatsoever resemble the naive approach of "trimming" in the hedge pruning sense. This (along with the mistake of growing indoors) is why the vast majority of the public concludes bonsai is a dark art / impossible. Guessing at bonsai is like throwing rocks at a computer hoping that C code will just "happen" somehow.
If you have a sun-facing outdoor garden, know what the term "binary tree" means, and can describe a tree in terms of a data structure (nodes etc), then you have within you the ability to learn bonsai for realsies if you make contact with people who do it in real life. Olive bonsai trees are relatively common in mediterranean-climate bonsai scenes, like that of California's bonsai scene: https://bonsaitonight.com/2023/10/20/preparing-an-olive-for-...
Trees like this are not grown on kitchen counters or in living rooms. _Maybe_ in a world-beating cannabis tent, but the hassle is extreme, and (going back to the topic of this thread), fighting diseases in the indoor cultivation environment is much much harder than outside.
For that reason, if your goal is ultimately the US, focus on the US, because you will otherwise be adding _many_ years to the process.
One very notable asterisk to the above: If, while applying for a GC, your spouse is from a no-backlog country (born in Canada, UK, or other no-backlog countries), then your application can essentially adopt that country as the birth country, and you can get through the GC process in a relatively short time (all other things equal).
From your perspective "good timing for a green card application" is ASA-F'ing-P.
Eventually though, doug fir reverts back to a sort of weed status later on, when the accumulated effects of human fire suppression causes doug fir to start crowding out other species and interferes with the typical succession pattern. Harder to notice in the PNW, but if you look at NorCal especially, there are areas that would typically be a more open woodland with (say) oak. Instead these are jam-packed with doug fir due to lack of fire. From the perspective of anyone (whether human, animal, or plant) who misses the pre-suppression woodland state that's normally regulated by regular "good" fire, doug fir is indeed a weed. There normally isn't _this_ much of it stretching all the way from Alaska to Mexico.