Comment Comment by humbleferret Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life by William FinneganNo better way to be reminded there is a big difference between someone that surfs for fun and someone who is a surfer.Surfing parts aside, this book taught me to appreciate the different parts of your life around your 'obsession' as you get older. parent humbleferret 1 year ago
No better way to be reminded there is a big difference between someone that surfs for fun and someone who is a surfer.
Surfing parts aside, this book taught me to appreciate the different parts of your life around your 'obsession' as you get older.