I don't know if the American Alpine Journal still reads like this, but I once went through a pile of 1960s or 70s back issues, and at the time it seemed a fairly regular article genre was:
"First we were at an altitude where we probably weren't thinking all that sharply to begin with, and then we got tired, cold, and hungry, and that's when we made the stupid mistake that killed ${COLLEAGUE}."
"First we were at an altitude where we probably weren't thinking all that sharply to begin with, and then we got tired, cold, and hungry, and that's when we made the stupid mistake that killed ${COLLEAGUE}."