Express is still the "go-to" now, because it's the rare case of a Node library that's stable, battle-tested, and doesn't change much. (Yes, the maintainers having not been able to release v5 has actually been a sort of advantage.)
But, there are other great options to go with now, and you probably won't go wrong with fastify or hapi.
But, there are other great options to go with now, and you probably won't go wrong with fastify or hapi.