Comment by yellowbkpk

The Toner style from Stamen has several different layers that you can use to accomplish what you're talking about:

- Hybrid does exactly what you're looking for: http://maps.stamen.com/toner-hybrid/#12/37.7706/-122.3782

But they also break that down into labels and lines:

- Labels: http://maps.stamen.com/toner-labels/#12/37.7706/-122.3782

- Lines: http://maps.stamen.com/toner-lines/#12/37.7706/-122.3782

Their Terrain style has a similar separation:

- Lines: http://maps.stamen.com/terrain-lines/#12/37.7706/-122.3782

- Labels: http://maps.stamen.com/terrain-labels/#12/37.7706/-122.3782

- Background: http://maps.stamen.com/terrain-background/#12/37.7706/-122.3...